by Elsa Wolff
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The southern part of Martinique is an exceptional place for sightseeing, whether on foot, horseback or bike.
I would like to introduce you to Grand Macabou and that part of the Trace des Caps which runs through it alongside the Atlantic Ocean. The Trace des Caps is a beautiful walking trail which goes from Petit Macabou Beach to St Anne, a small fishing village. During this walk you will come across woods and mangrove swamps, marvellous beaches and spectacular cliffs fronting onto the sea.
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The National Forests Office (ONF: Office national des forêts) boards are full of useful information which, due to the excellent visual presentation, is accesible to everybody.
Before Setting Off
Whichever way you choose to discover this place, you must always beware of the sun. It is best to start as early as you can and rest from time to time in the shade. You must also take sun lotion and wear a cap and sunglasses. Most importantly, take a lot of water and snacks or even a packed lunch if you are planning to walk all day long.
If exploring the trail on bike, you will need equipment in good order: a mountain bike with reliable tyres! Above all, take what is needed to repair a puncture - ideally, an extra inner tube - because of the prickly bushes along the track. This trip is also interesting on horseback. (Puyferrat Ranch offers several options for discovering the coast.)
Tourist guides indicate that this track is not difficult, but if you are not used to mountain biking it would be advisable to start with an easier trail.
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Protection Of The Coast
Since 1981, the National Forests Office and the Littoral Space and Lacustrine Strand Conservatory have taken care of the Grand Macabou site, an area of 113 ha. Their aim is to preserve the current landscape quality, to rejuvenate some open spaces which have been damaged and to reach out and educate a broad section of the public.
A Bit Of History
Before the invasion of settlers beginning in 1635, primary forest extended right up to the sea. However, the settlers destroyed this picturesque landscape, clearing the fringes of the forest to recover farmland. Then, at the beginning of the 20th century, they abandoned farming because of the poor quality of the soil which had been overexploited. Nowadays, the secondary forest - or xerophilous forest - is expanding. With any luck, the primary forest may yet reappear!
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Mangrove Swamp
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Lagoon - the red colour is due to algae in the water
Description Of The Trip
To reach Grand Macabou Beach, you first pass by Petit Macabou Beach, a little beach about 300 metres long. Even if there is a lot of shade under the palm trees and hardly any waves, there are few people who use the beach because of the two kilometre track which leads to it. In front of the beach there is an old road. Nowadays it is a private road with a drop-arm barrier but you may still use it by paying a little entry fee to the property owner. At the end of the track, you arrive at the top of a big cliff, before walking down to Grand Macabou, an enormous 600 metre long beach. Here, the most striking aspect is that so large a space could be deserted! In fact, Grand Macabou is one of the last untouched beaches of Martinique because of its inaccessibility - the access route described above turns most people away.
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Grand Macabou Beach
There are perfect waves for body boarders. It is a very pleasant beach rimmed with palm trees, like its little sister Petit Macabou, although you may occasionally have to wade through a lot of seaweed. Behind the beach, in the trees, there is a path for bikes or, if you are tired, a walk along the sand. It is a very pleasant trip but take care not to hit any crabs!
Afterwards, you follow a very narrow path up for about 5 minutes - when riding - before arriving at the top of another sea cliff, much more striking than the first because there is a lot of wind and the sea beats violently upon the rocks. Normally, at this point you are totally alone and you can fully appreciate the landscape! There is a precious little chapel called La Chapelle de la Vierge des Marins, which was restored in 2001.
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The Chapel
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Following the track to your right, you will arrive at another National Forests Shelter where you will be introduced to the protected sight and its historical background. But if you continue to your left you will arrive at Cap Macré. At these beaches there are lots of rocks and many multicolored fish. With your mask and beneath the palms you will really enjoy yourself!
If you are fond of untamed landscapes and want to discover a place full of unconquered grace, you will not be disappointed on visiting this beautiful part of Martinique. Whether as a tourist or as a local of the island, if you are looking for a weekend trip or a secluded, calm beach for bathing, these beaches and this walk are wonderful. I invite you to discover this place for yourself.
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